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Birdwatching trip report - India

Period: 7.1.2007-17.1.2007
Author(s): david stanton

Key sites visited: gujarat, india



 

10 DAYS IN GUJARAT (JANUARY 2007)

 

                          David  Stanton                                      

In winter 1994 I traveled for 1 month on a motorbike in Gujarat. I remember endless pothole roads, very spicy food and riding for hours in the Little rann of kutch in an unsuccessful search for the Wild Ass. Gujarat was not a place I thought to come back to.

Then came the internet and oriental bird club with  a lot of information  about birding in this state. The last monsoon was very generous to Gujarat and I decided to visit again.

These days, the road system is the best in India and I never saw a cleaner state and I developed a favor for Gujarati food.

 

Permits and Forest Department

Most of the birding sites in Gujarat are protected areas and that puts them under the control of the forest department and an entrance fee is charged. The system is that foreigners have to pay 10 times more then Indians. Resident permit sometimes help to get an Indian price and sometimes not. In Gir NP they charge for a minimum of 4 people in a jeep and if in a group there is only 1 foreigner your group will still have to pay 40$ for each entrance. In Velavadar NP. The forest rest house has been slightly renovated and except of entrance fee, they also charge from foreigners 5 times the rate of Indians for accommodation and food. Here they did not except our resident permit and we decided to go to Bhavnagar for the night.     

 

Flamingos, Cranes and Pelicans

The heavy monsoon rain had a big influence on flamingos. We only saw lesser flamingos and only in the Little rann of kutch and in Bhavnagar. Greater flamingo probably still nest in the Big rann. Common cranes were everywhere and 2 flocks of demoiselle, in Narada (jamnagar) and 80 km. south of Bhavnagar.

The first 6 pelicans we saw in the Little rann were Dalmatians. Later in the wetland we saw another 8, together with about 80 white. 6 dalmatians were seen in Maliya salt pans, 12 in Narada (with 4 white) and 8 in Bhavnagar. 2 flocks of white pelicans were seen from the road near Maliya and near Dholera.

 

 

Together with my girlfriend Heleen we drove from Goa to Mumbai where we picked up her uncle and aunt that arrived from Holland and drove to Vadodera where we spent the first night. The birding tour started the next day, 7th January 2007. Early morning start and drive to Ahmedabads ring road, took the road towards Rajkot and after a few km. turned into a small country road that goes to Nal-Sarovar. This 40km. road was the best bird watching rout of this trip. This is flat agriculture countryside with a lot of water that created seasonal wetlands and was packed with birds. Here we saw the only sarus cranes of the trip. The flooded agriculture fields had thousands of waders, mainly ruff, little stint and black tailed godwit and about 200 comb ducks. The electric wires and the bushes and trees on the side of the road had hundreds of short toad larks, oriental skylark, common and large grey babblers, spanish sparrows, grey necked, black headed and red headed buntings and black breasted weavers. I drive a lot all over India but never saw such a large concentration of birds. We should have spent more time there as when we reached to Nal Sarovar, we realized it was Sunday. The park was packed with locals and after an hour we continued towards Dassada near the little rann of kutch where we stayed in Rann Riders camp. On the afternoon I went with a local guide from the camp to search for sociable lapwings, but without success.

The following morning we drove into the Little rann with a guide to the hubara (maqueen’s) bustard area. My jeep, Mahindra bolero 2WD was good enough and there was no reason to rent a 4WD vehicle. We soon saw Wild Ass. There were plenty of animals and we also saw them on the high way to Maliya the next day. We saw 4 hubaras, a roosting short eared owl and the first Dalmatian pelicans, all birds I only saw once before 25 years ago in Israel. In the afternoon we drove to another part of the rann, a wetland, where we saw flamingos, pelicans, ducks and other waterfowl.

The next morning we drove 350km. to the very west of India to Nakhatrana in Kutch district where we met Jugal Tiwari. Jugal worked in research for BNHS in this area for many years and now he made his home near Nakhatrana. We arrived in time to go to see the specialty of the area and we found 3 males of   grey hypocolius. Before evening we drove to the nearby Banni grassland. A big lake is formed this year with the usual waterfowl and a very large group of common cranes. We arrived to Banni for sunset and longer time should have been spent in this magnificent place.

The following day Jugal took us to bird in grassland areas near Lala bustard sanctuary.  Very fast we located 2 indian bustards. All the stonechats we saw were females and it was very difficult to identify stoliczka’s. Jugal is using photography to confirm difficult birds.

Waterholes in the grassland attract many birds including bimaculated and sykes’s larks and long billed pipits. Other common birds like rufous tailed shrike, sand martin,  Indian bushchat and red collared dove can be rather scarce in other parts of India.

The best birds that day were on the way back. From the car we saw white bellied minivet on the roadside. Few km. later we stopped in a scrub forest and within 20 minutes Jugal located a white naped tit. Further on the road I saw another white bellied minivet and when we stopped to look, we found 2 marshal iora (replace common iora in Kutch) and another 4 white bellied minivet.

Next morning I went with Jugal for a morning walk in his village and saw more marshal ioras. After breakfast we went on another long drive to Jamnagar , the main city in the gulf of kutch where we arrived late in the afternoon to hotel president that arranged us the permits and the local guide Chirang Solanki who took us very early in the morning to Narada 60 km. north of Jamnagar and part of Marine NP.  Narada is the site for crab plover. When we arrived in the morning there was high tied and on the last bit of sand we saw about 300 birds. An hour later the sea withdraw a few hundred meters and the coast was covered with waders. Among hundreds of curlews, whimbrels, stins, plovers and sandpipers we saw 25 great knots and another 1000 crab plovers. In the salt pans next to the beach we saw black necked grebes and dalmatian pelicans.

In the afternoon we drove 150km. to Junagagh. We checked a few water reservoirs around Jamnagar, but not much except of more common cranes. The next day was devoted to Girnar hill, a pilgrim place with many temples on a hill over 1100m high. Girnar hill holds very good forests and more bird watching should be done here. When Heleen and the family went to see the Ashka pillars, I went down into a nearby nalla and in 10 minutes saw 4 kinds of flycatchers including brown breasted, a bird that I don’t know its status in Gujarat.

Gir NP.  Is famous as being the last home for the Asian lion. The forest is mainly teak and from bird watching point of view it has little to offer. Sasan gir has plenty of accommodation to offer and we stayed in a local farm house. We stayed for 2 nights, went in 2 safaris into the park and birded around the farm and in the forest. I was very lucky to see 2 lions. Here the forest department located the animals; about 30 people including children went out of their jeeps, walked about 100m. (Something nobody would dare to do in Africa) to about 20 m. away from the lions.     

The last destination was Velavadar grasslands. There it was where we encounter bad roads and bad luck with punchers and it was little before sunset that we arrived to the NP. We had time to see blackbucks and hundreds of harriers coming to roost, but it were too dark to see if any of them were hen. At night we drove 40km. to Bhavnagar.  The coast road between Velavadar  and Bhavnagar  is a lot shorter and better these days than the other road which in the map is the main road to Ahmedabad.

The next morning was the last of the trip. We went bird watching in the salt pans near the harbor. More flamingos, waders and ducks and at midday we started the journey back to Goa. On the way we past again in Velavadar and a black stork was the last bird of this trip.

 

 

 

Many thanks to Nik Devasar for all the information to make this trip successful.

 

 

 

 

 


BIRD LIST

Grey francolin

Painted bush quail

Peafowl

Ruddy shelduck

Comb duck

Gadwall

Wigeon

Spot billed duck

Common teal

Pintail

Shoveler

Yellow crowned woodpecker

Brown capped pygmy woodpecker

Black rumped flameback

Coppersmith

Hoopoe

Indian roller

Common kingfisher

White throated kingfisher

Green bee eater

Koel

Coucal

Rose ringed parakeet

House swift

Alpine swift

Spotted owlet

Short eared owl

Indian nightjar

Rock pigeon

Laughing dove

Spotted dove

Red collard dove

Eurasian collard dove

Yellow footed green pigeon

Hubara (McQueen’s) bustard

Great indian bustard

Sarus crane

Demoiselle crane

Common crane

White breasted waterhen

Coot

Common moorhen

Chestnut bellied sandgrouse

Black tailed godwit

Bar tailed godwit

Whimbrel

Curlew

Common redshank

Marsh sandpiper

Common greenshank

Green sandpiper

Terek sandpiper

Common sandpiper

Great knot

Ruddy turnstone

Sanderling

Little stint

Dunlin

Curlew sandpiper

Ruff

Indian courser

Eurasian thick-knee

Oystercatcher

Black winged stilt

Pied avocet

Crab plover

Bronze winged jacana

Oriental pratincole

Grey lover

Kentish plover

Lesser sand plover

Greater sand plover

Yellow wattled lapwing

Red wattled lapwing

Heuglin’s gull

Pallas’s gull

Brown headed gull

Black headed gull

Slender billed gull

Gull billed tern

Caspian tern

River tern

Lesser crested tern

Common tern

Little tern

Whiskered tern

Osprey

Black shouldered kite

Black kite

Egyptian vulture

White backed vulture

Long billed vulture

Short toed eagle

Marsh harrier

Pallid harrier

Montagu’s harrier

Shikra

Honey buzzard

White eyed buzzard

Common buzzard

Long legged buzzard

Steppe eagle

Booted eagle

Changeable hawk eagle

Common kestrel

Black necked grebe

Little grebe

Little cormorant

Great cormorant

Little egret

Western reef egret

Great egret

Intermediate egret

Cattle egret

Pond heron

Grey heron

Purple heron

Lesser flamingo

Glossy ibis

Black headed ibis

Black ibis

Eurasian spoonbill

White pelican

Dalmatian pelican

Painted stork

Asian openbill

Black stork

Rufuos tailed shrike

Bay backed shrike

Long tailed shrike

Southern grey shrike

Rufuos treepie

House crow

Jungle crow

Golden oriole

Large cuckooshrike

Small minivet

White bellied minivet

White browed fantail

Black drongo

Paradise flycatcher

Marshal iora

Common iora

Common woodshrike

Blue rock thrush

Asian brown flycatcher

Brown breasted flycatcher

Red throated flycatcher

Tickell’s flycatcher

Grey headed canary flycatcher

Indian robin

Magpie robin

Black redstart

Common stonechat

Stoliczka’s bushchat

Pied bushchat

Variable wheatear

Desert wheatear

Isabelline wheatear

Brahaminy starling

Rosy starling

Common myna

Bank myna

Great tit

White napped tit

Sand martin

Plain martin

Crag martin

Barn swallow

Wire tailed swallow

Red rumped swallow

White eared bulbul

Red vented bulbul

Grey hypocolius

Grey breasted prinia

Jungle prinia

Plain prinia

Oriental white-eye

 

Blyth’s reed warbler

Paddyfield warbler

Clamorous reed warbler

Lesser whitethroat

Orphan warbler

Common tailorbird

Common chiffchaff

Greenish warbler

Tawny bellied babbler

Common babbler

Large tailed babbler

Jungle babbler

Indian bushlark

      Ashy crowned sparrowlark

Rufuos tailed lark

Bimaculated lark

Greater short toed lark

Crested lark

Sykes’s lark

Plain flowerpecker

Purple sunbird

House sparrow

Spanish sparrow

White wagtail

White browed wagtail

Citrine wagtail

Yellow wagtail

Grey wagtail

Paddyfield pipit

Tree pipit

Tawny pipit

Long billed pipit

Black breasted weaver

Indian silverbill

Scally breasted munia

Grey necked bunting

Red headed bunting

Black headed bunting

 

 

 


 

MAMALS


 

 


 

Wild ass

Blue ball

Chinkara

Blackbuck

Chital

Smbar

Porcupine

Lion

Jackal

Indian fox

Wild boar

Gujarati rabbit

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

David Stanton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 







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