10 DAYS IN GUJARAT (JANUARY 2007)
David Stanton
In winter 1994 I traveled for 1 month on a motorbike in Gujarat. I remember endless pothole roads, very spicy food and riding for hours in the Little rann of kutch in an unsuccessful search for the Wild Ass. Gujarat was not a place I thought to come back to.
Then came the internet and oriental bird club with a lot of information about birding in this state. The last monsoon was very generous to Gujarat and I decided to visit again.
These days, the road system is the best in India and I never saw a cleaner state and I developed a favor for Gujarati food.
Permits and Forest Department
Most of the birding sites in Gujarat are protected areas and that puts them under the control of the forest department and an entrance fee is charged. The system is that foreigners have to pay 10 times more then Indians. Resident permit sometimes help to get an Indian price and sometimes not. In Gir NP they charge for a minimum of 4 people in a jeep and if in a group there is only 1 foreigner your group will still have to pay 40$ for each entrance. In Velavadar NP. The forest rest house has been slightly renovated and except of entrance fee, they also charge from foreigners 5 times the rate of Indians for accommodation and food. Here they did not except our resident permit and we decided to go to Bhavnagar for the night.
Flamingos, Cranes and Pelicans
The heavy monsoon rain had a big influence on flamingos. We only saw lesser flamingos and only in the Little rann of kutch and in Bhavnagar. Greater flamingo probably still nest in the Big rann. Common cranes were everywhere and 2 flocks of demoiselle, in Narada (jamnagar) and 80 km. south of Bhavnagar.
The first 6 pelicans we saw in the Little rann were Dalmatians. Later in the wetland we saw another 8, together with about 80 white. 6 dalmatians were seen in Maliya salt pans, 12 in Narada (with 4 white) and 8 in Bhavnagar. 2 flocks of white pelicans were seen from the road near Maliya and near Dholera.
Together with my girlfriend Heleen we drove from Goa to Mumbai where we picked up her uncle and aunt that arrived from Holland and drove to Vadodera where we spent the first night. The birding tour started the next day, 7th January 2007. Early morning start and drive to Ahmedabads ring road, took the road towards Rajkot and after a few km. turned into a small country road that goes to Nal-Sarovar. This 40km. road was the best bird watching rout of this trip. This is flat agriculture countryside with a lot of water that created seasonal wetlands and was packed with birds. Here we saw the only sarus cranes of the trip. The flooded agriculture fields had thousands of waders, mainly ruff, little stint and black tailed godwit and about 200 comb ducks. The electric wires and the bushes and trees on the side of the road had hundreds of short toad larks, oriental skylark, common and large grey babblers, spanish sparrows, grey necked, black headed and red headed buntings and black breasted weavers. I drive a lot all over India but never saw such a large concentration of birds. We should have spent more time there as when we reached to Nal Sarovar, we realized it was Sunday. The park was packed with locals and after an hour we continued towards Dassada near the little rann of kutch where we stayed in Rann Riders camp. On the afternoon I went with a local guide from the camp to search for sociable lapwings, but without success.
The following morning we drove into the Little rann with a guide to the hubara (maqueen’s) bustard area. My jeep, Mahindra bolero 2WD was good enough and there was no reason to rent a 4WD vehicle. We soon saw Wild Ass. There were plenty of animals and we also saw them on the high way to Maliya the next day. We saw 4 hubaras, a roosting short eared owl and the first Dalmatian pelicans, all birds I only saw once before 25 years ago in Israel. In the afternoon we drove to another part of the rann, a wetland, where we saw flamingos, pelicans, ducks and other waterfowl.
The next morning we drove 350km. to the very west of India to Nakhatrana in Kutch district where we met Jugal Tiwari. Jugal worked in research for BNHS in this area for many years and now he made his home near Nakhatrana. We arrived in time to go to see the specialty of the area and we found 3 males of grey hypocolius. Before evening we drove to the nearby Banni grassland. A big lake is formed this year with the usual waterfowl and a very large group of common cranes. We arrived to Banni for sunset and longer time should have been spent in this magnificent place.
The following day Jugal took us to bird in grassland areas near Lala bustard sanctuary. Very fast we located 2 indian bustards. All the stonechats we saw were females and it was very difficult to identify stoliczka’s. Jugal is using photography to confirm difficult birds.
Waterholes in the grassland attract many birds including bimaculated and sykes’s larks and long billed pipits. Other common birds like rufous tailed shrike, sand martin, Indian bushchat and red collared dove can be rather scarce in other parts of India.
The best birds that day were on the way back. From the car we saw white bellied minivet on the roadside. Few km. later we stopped in a scrub forest and within 20 minutes Jugal located a white naped tit. Further on the road I saw another white bellied minivet and when we stopped to look, we found 2 marshal iora (replace common iora in Kutch) and another 4 white bellied minivet.
Next morning I went with Jugal for a morning walk in his village and saw more marshal ioras. After breakfast we went on another long drive to Jamnagar , the main city in the gulf of kutch where we arrived late in the afternoon to hotel president that arranged us the permits and the local guide Chirang Solanki who took us very early in the morning to Narada 60 km. north of Jamnagar and part of Marine NP. Narada is the site for crab plover. When we arrived in the morning there was high tied and on the last bit of sand we saw about 300 birds. An hour later the sea withdraw a few hundred meters and the coast was covered with waders. Among hundreds of curlews, whimbrels, stins, plovers and sandpipers we saw 25 great knots and another 1000 crab plovers. In the salt pans next to the beach we saw black necked grebes and dalmatian pelicans.
In the afternoon we drove 150km. to Junagagh. We checked a few water reservoirs around Jamnagar, but not much except of more common cranes. The next day was devoted to Girnar hill, a pilgrim place with many temples on a hill over 1100m high. Girnar hill holds very good forests and more bird watching should be done here. When Heleen and the family went to see the Ashka pillars, I went down into a nearby nalla and in 10 minutes saw 4 kinds of flycatchers including brown breasted, a bird that I don’t know its status in Gujarat.
Gir NP. Is famous as being the last home for the Asian lion. The forest is mainly teak and from bird watching point of view it has little to offer. Sasan gir has plenty of accommodation to offer and we stayed in a local farm house. We stayed for 2 nights, went in 2 safaris into the park and birded around the farm and in the forest. I was very lucky to see 2 lions. Here the forest department located the animals; about 30 people including children went out of their jeeps, walked about 100m. (Something nobody would dare to do in Africa) to about 20 m. away from the lions.
The last destination was Velavadar grasslands. There it was where we encounter bad roads and bad luck with punchers and it was little before sunset that we arrived to the NP. We had time to see blackbucks and hundreds of harriers coming to roost, but it were too dark to see if any of them were hen. At night we drove 40km. to Bhavnagar. The coast road between Velavadar and Bhavnagar is a lot shorter and better these days than the other road which in the map is the main road to Ahmedabad.
The next morning was the last of the trip. We went bird watching in the salt pans near the harbor. More flamingos, waders and ducks and at midday we started the journey back to Goa. On the way we past again in Velavadar and a black stork was the last bird of this trip.
Many thanks to Nik Devasar for all the information to make this trip successful.