Period: 14.2.2007-28.2.2007 Author(s): Bruce Bartrug
Key sites visited: Stoung, Tmatboey, Chhep, Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Prek Toal, Angkor Wat
Birding Cambodia – February 2007: A brief trip report
Authored by Trevor Ford
Bird list by Trevor Ford
Photo credits as listed
Final edit by Bruce Bartrug
This is a summary of a two-week trip to north and central Cambodia made by a few friends of Howie Nielsen of Maine, USA. Howie organized and led the trip, with the help of local guides, under the auspices of the Sam Veasna Center for Wildlife Conservation (SVC) in Siem Reap. Howie’s wife Karen, who also works for SVC, arranged the logistics, reservations, and support for this trip. Participants were Ron Hoff and Dollyann Myers, John Clark and Mary Ward-Jackson, Bruce Bartrug and Trevor Ford. All survived. Mostly.
14/2 Most of the group met in Siem Reap at the Golden Banana hotel and enjoyed a first meal together at the nearby Warehouse. We took advantage of this occasion to celebrate Karen’s birthday. Thanks for the great party, K!
15/2 After sorting the vehicles, we drove to Kompong Thom and on to the flood plain grasslands of Krous Krom. Highlights included flushing a male Bengal Florican (twice), male Pied Harrier and Yellow-breasted Bunting. Then followed the long and dusty drive to Tmatboey, where we stayed at the village guesthouse in dormitory-style accommodation.
16/2 The day was spent in the dry deciduous dipterocarp forest of Tmatboey, with morning and evening excursions. An overcast sky in the morning allowed prolonged bird activity and we recorded 94 species in this rather narrow habitat type. Obvious highlights were our target birds of Giant and White-shouldered Ibis, but Brown Fish Owl, and Black-headed and Great Slaty Woodpeckers were also excellent. Back to the guesthouse for well-earned G&Ts.
17/2 Lack of cloud cover meant a slower day in the forest but many good birds were seen, including several of yesterday’s goodies. Streak-throated Woodpecker and Indochinese Cuckoo-shrike were amongst the specialties added to our overall list before we returned to the comfort of our rustic saloon.
18/2 After a quick look around the nearby riverine scrub, we embarked on the grueling drive to Chhep, continuing to the campsite/building near the vulture restaurant. Mostly a driving day but a few species were seen en route, including our first Black Baza.
19/2 Before dawn we settled into the two hides overlooking the sacrificial area to see what the local vultures thought of our offering, a cow killed the previous day. Not much, it seemed, until a Large-billed Crow gave them a wake-up call with a peck at the carcass. Greed suddenly consumed the vultures (bad pun intended), and for the next hour or so we watched a melee of White-rumped, Red-headed and Slender-billed Vultures convert the corpse into a skeleton. With appetites intact, we returned to camp for a hearty breakfast before driving further west to another campsite near the “duck pond,” an isolated pool in a currently dry streambed. Several new birds were seen later on, including a Brown Hawk Owl after dark.
20/2An early morning start for the duck pond was not early enough, as only brief views were obtained of a pair of White-winged Ducks, and these were flight views for most of us. Compensation was almost had by extremely good birding along the forest trails, and the fact that we’d brought the cook with us from Tmatboey. Bathing was an interesting experience, in something resembling a sewage outlet in colour, if not yet content.
21/2This time we got to the duck pond an hour before dawn and were treated to an almost surreal experience. In a short space of time we saw Woolly-necked Stork (1), White-headed Duck (2), Giant Ibis (2) and Lesser Adjutant (1) feeding around the pond. Five Siamese Firebacks foraged near the makeshift hides. Brilliant! Swinhoe’s Minivets on the way back to the campsite were good value before we braved the long drive back to Kompong Thom. Beds and showers were welcome attributes of the Arunras Hotel.
Note: Independent travel to areas near the Laos border in northern Prear Vihear Province is problematic at best. The area can only be reached in the dry season over very primitive roads, and the location of White-winged Ducks fluctuates considerably. There are also no accommodations or sources for supplies, and banditry is still a problem. Local guides are necessary to prevent wandering into the odd minefield. It would have been impossible to undertake this part of the trip without the help of the Sam Veasna Center, who arranged everything, including WCS field staff, police escort, local guides, cooks and supplies. We brought our own tents and/or hammocks. It is recommended, therefore, that birders hire on with knowledgeable outfitters and guides. The expense is reasonable. See recommendations below.
22/2 We again visited the grasslands at Krous Krom, seeing similar birds as before, as well as Greater Spotted Eagle and Rubythroat. The long drive to Kratie was relieved by a visit to Simon’s “Lazy Mekong Daze” restaurant in Kompong Cham, with our first look at the Mekong River. Several Small Pratincoles were found along the river before we arrived at the Santepheap Hotel in Kratie.
23/2 We enjoyed a morning boat excursion on the Mekong River which produced excellent views of six Mekong Wagtails and about twelve Irrawaddy Dolphins. Many other species were seen from the boat during an excellent morning. In the afternoon we spent several hours trying to find a nearby lake. We eventually succeeded, but were allowed only brief views of Asian Golden Weaver.
24/2 Approaching from a different direction we found the lake quite easily, as it was just down the road from the hotel! And this time everyone had splendid views of Asian Golden Weavers. We also visited another lake to the north of Kratie before heading back to Kompong Thom, again via Simon’s place. The Arunras Hotel and iced coffee helped while away the heat of the early afternoon before we explored the nearby grassland of Stoung. Another Bengal Florican, Pied Harrier and Lanceolated Warbler were all seen, as well as an Acrocephalus that was indubitably a Manchurian Reed Warbler! We returned late to Siem Reap and the Golden Banana.
25/2 This morning we took the bumpy drive to Ang Trapaeng Thmor, now all in one vehicle, and birded the crane fields, the reservoir and the extensive wetlands. Another excellent day, with many species seen. The highlights were Sarus Cranes (215 were counted), a Milky Stork at the nest (after a local guide had told us where we should be looking), Cotton Pygmy Geese, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, White-browed Crake and Oriental Pratincole.
26/2 A day’s tour of Prek Toal Biosphere Reserve on Tonle Sap lake began before dawn with a boat taxi to the floating village of Chong Kneas. Here we switched to a boat manned by Reserve personnel for the trip to Prek Toal. This boat also towed five smaller punts, which were used for the approach to a viewing platform through small channels in the Reserve itself. The viewing platform was high in a tree, accessed by wooden ladder, and offered splendid views of nesting birds. Water birds were plentiful, of course, and included herons, bitterns, cormorants, Oriental Darters, Spot-billed Pelicans, and Painted, Milky, and Woolly-necked Storks, Asian Openbills, and both Greater and Lesser Adjutants. Hundreds of storks kettled overhead, including nearby soaring Greater Adjutants. It was a long but memorable day, filled not only with the birds of Prek Toal, but also the sights and sounds of Chong Kneas and the markets of the landing near Siem Reap.
27/2 The Siem Reap temples could not be ignored, and today we visited Angkor Wat, the Bayon Temple and Angkor Thom. Although we were templed-out by the end of the day it was thoroughly enjoyable and nobody would have missed wandering among the ruins and the incredible carvings therein. Coincidentally several species of birds were noted, both during an early morning walk near Angkor Wat and during the remainder of the day as well. Swiftlets around Angkor Wat were identified as Germain’s.
28/2 The last few hours’ birding in Cambodia were spent at some rice fields, one of Howie’s local patches, just outside Siem Reap in the small village of Chreav. This was most enjoyable with good numbers of birds in evidence and a few additions to the overall list. A great trip that met and surpassed all expectations.
Totals
Between us we saw, heard, and suspected 250 bird species, an excellent total considering that we didn’t venture south to areas such as Bokor. We saw eight mammal species, hearing or seeing signs of several others. Reptiles, amphibians and a variety of insects were also encountered in reasonable numbers but little time was spent trying to identify them. So little time, so much to see, etc.!
Apologies
Apologies for not elaborating on the gastronomic delights we savoured during the trip. Everyone was suitably impressed with the range and quality of food available, and our cook from Tmatboey, Chem Sokhy, was a delight to have onboard.
Bird Photos
Ron Hoff, master digiscoper.
Thanks
Thanks to everyone in the group, SVC and the crew at WCS sites who helped make this such a fun and successful trip. Special thanks to Howie and Karen Nielsen and the smiling Cambodian people.
Birding inquiries and arrangements
With no doubts this excursion to Cambodia ranks among the top birding trips I’ve taken, right up there with southeastern Peru and Namibia/Botswana. If you should visit this part of SE Asia you’ll find it relatively inexpensive, and will enjoy the delightful cuisine, the pleasant people, the temples at Angkor, and of course the birds. And one couldn’t bird Cambodia with a better organization than Wildlife Conservation Society. WCS is weaving ecotourism into the structure of local village life, and working closely with villagers to encourage conservation of critical habitat for many highly threatened bird species. Please find below information concerning WCS and SVC tour activities, websites for each organization, and an email address for inquiries and additional information. Best of luck, Bruce Bartrug.
In furthering efforts to implement best practices in ecotourism, Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) has formally partnered with the Sam Veasna Center for Wildlife Conservation (SVC) in Siem Reap for the management of tourist access to protected bird areas in Cambodia. SVC is responsible for insuring there is sufficient tour capacity for birding parties, particularly at Tmatboey. They provide qualified English-speaking birding guides as well as local guides for each tour, and handle all logistics at the sites. For this they charge a set service fee based on the number of participants, the number of guides required, and the costs associated with each specific site. This last is determined by local village committees. A portion of tour fees supports SVC’s mission of bringing conservation issues to the fore in Cambodia through education, research support, and other awareness activities.
Ecotourism benefits communities directly when local villagers provide services as guides, cooks, housekeepers and support staff. Birders also support a community development fund, the use of which is democratically decided upon by the entire village and helps link wildlife conservation with improved living standards, encouraging compliance with conservation guidelines advocated by WCS.